Friday, July 14, 2006

Humidity plays a large part in the overall issues you face here in Hong Kong and there are many misconceptions about this issue.


What we can do about it?

First: You need to understand that most products attract humidity.

Why?: it is simply the nature of their ingredients. Most products were actually designed years ago and simply did not keep up with the trends, Mousse being a large culprit. In the last few years however product companies have developed products that do combat humidity rather well.

However: with the advent of Thermal Straightening and Relaxers we now need to be very concerned about Conditioning and Reconstructing.

Most of you have heard of or used (shame on you if you have) oil treatments, this is one of the oldest misconceptions I have had to deal with.Hair is made of ninetyseven percent protein and three percent water ( approach), there are other small bonding ingredients but we will concentrate on the important parts. There is no and will be no oil.

When you use these products you actually seal the top layer of the hair called the Cuticle from letting nutrients pass through to the center or Cortex. This is very important because the treatments I will recommend must work on the Cortex if they are to make a long term difference.

What products penetrate and how can I use them effectively?

*To truly aid in De-Frizzing your hair we need to start from the inside.

First: Find a qualified Stylist who has a good understanding of hair structure and Reconstruction services.

*This is not as easy as adding a conditioner and putting you under the dryer. This may do more harm than good. It involves an indepth analysis of your hair and its porosity, texture and scalp type.

Second: After this consultation your stylist will choose to customize your Reconditioner by blending the proper amounts of Protein and moisturizing to balance the porosity and insure proper reconstruction of the Cystein Bonds in the hair. These Bonds are curctial in your quest to De-frizz.

Why?

Because the more bonds are reconstructed the better the elasticity and the longer your blowdry of ironing will last. They are also crucial to any chemical service as Colour, Perms and Relaxers all effect these bonds in some way.

Best way to apply reconstructers: under a Steamer.

Reason: water broken down into steam can penetrate pass the Cuticle into the Cortex imparting both Proteins and Moisture (water being true moisture). This is possible because of the smaller molecular size of the water and reconstructer after steaming.


If pescribed a treatment at home:

1- take a damp towel and put it in the Microwave for a few seconds to heat it.
2- After which you place on your head after shampooing and applying your treatment.
3-Leave in for 20 minutes

The reason why this process is so important is because you must start with a well conditioned head of hair if you want it to stand up agaist Humidity.

Poris hair attracts more humidity and overly conditioned hair looks greasy. Once this process is complete you can then use items such as your blowdryer and flat iron to achieve your goals.

If you have had a chemical process, especially Straightening or Relaxing it is extremely important to use these treatments as they break protein bonds and leave hair poris no matter how careful you are. This is not to say they are bad, I myself do many. However, your after care is criticle.

Recomended Reconstructers:

"Glazzius" capalary emulsion formula....This product has a liquid Protein that can be added to
balance strength and Moisture.

"Cat" by Redkin...This product is good for reconstructing Protein bondsbut must be combined with a moisturizer if used often.

'Keritin Oil' by Wella...this is a special blend of protein and moisture thatis wonderful on dry hair
but can be a bit heavyif used to often.

De-frizz Serums and Styling aids

'KMS' Flat Out...thermal stylier...good and lightweight, caution on amount.

'MOP' straightening cream...leaves hair softgreat with Iron.

'Aveda' Hang Straight"...good product. light but not as strong as some.

'Tigi' Control Freak"...Go light with this and do notuse the Extra Extra CF

'Sencience'" Smoothing Gel, great product with minimal cost

'Paul Mitchell'...Quick Slip...my second choice after the Sencience

Irons:

'GHD'...Great Iron, get the smaller one: "sapphire"...good iron but get the new ceramic

'Create' Cera Majic, this iron has adjustable temperature gauges and is very user friendly

Tips:

*Use a shine product that is water soluble before ironing, and after, just a drop.

*Clip unwanted hair out of way before ironing and work on one inch sections.

*Switch to a clarifying shampoo ever third time you wash to remove baked on product.

*Make sure your stylist round brushes the hair first and does not just ruff dry then Iron

Good Luck...